Penela

The road from Sellium (Tomar) to Conímbriga passed very near  Rabaçal. This was an area, known as Ladeia, the battlefield between the Christians and Arabs.  King D. Afonso Henriques ordered the building of the “Castelo do Germanelo” and gave great privileges to the people here. Earlier, many centuries earlier, the owner of the Roman Villae  in Rabaçal could see these mountains when looking out of the tower, towards the rising sun. He was certainly well to do and from here he could see his properties.We know that he was rich because of the dimensions of the palace.  Large halls, with a dome resting on columns.  The walls were covered with marble stone.  The floors had multicoloured mosaic better than the ones in Conímbriga. We are in the 4th century AD and, as you can see, the lands that form today the council of Penela were already inhabited. Penela is an ancient town: in 1137 it was given the charter at the time D. Afonso Henriques had already proclaimed himself the Prince of Portugal. The castle was of strategic importance for the Mondego defence line. The Church of São Miguel, built within its walls, is the result of additions made in the second half of the 14th century. But the medieval part of Penela also deserves a visit: amongst the houses you can discover the pillory in Manueline style, the Renaissance Church of Stª Eufémia and the beautiful Misericordia Square with its church. In September, during the Fair of São Miguel, there are walnuts and honey for sale.  But in spring the Rabaçal cheese becomes, as Eça Queirós would say, “round and divine”.  The “Tibornadas”  (roasted potatoes in their jackets with codfish and olive oil) complemented with the wines from Terras do Sicó, should be part of the menu.The Rabaçal valley is surprisingly a Mediterranean place.  The aridness of the lime is good for the oaks, the elm oaks and the cork oak. The grass of Santa Maria, the rockrose and the Helichrysum picardii are dotted with goats and sheep.  The stone walls divide the properties and the terraces support old olive trees.  It is a grandiose and sunny south.The rainwater from the whole Maciço de Sicó filters through ravines or calcareous stone, or caves such as those of Taliscas.These caves dominate the speleologic system of the Dueça and, as in fairy stories, the water moldes capricious forms drop by drop, on the lime.  These are imperial halls.